A day in Kerlingarfjöll: Highlands and hot springs

Kerlingarfjöll is one of Iceland’s wildest day trips, with steaming ground, orange and red rock, snowy peaks, and a hot bath far from town. You reach it by bus from Reykjavík, then walk through Hveradalir geothermal valley before relaxing at the Highland Baths.

I like the contrast between the rough highland ride and the calm two-hour soak. I also like that the trip includes Gullfoss and Geysir, so you see three major sights in one long day rather than spending the entire outing on one remote stop.

The catch is the road. It can be very rough, and the time at Hveradalir is short. One hour, or about 75 minutes in the schedule, is enough for a taste, not a leisurely hike. Slippery paths and steps make hiking poles a smart addition.

Key points to know before booking

• Hveradalir is the main event: Expect hot springs, colored rock, steam, and a short self-guided walk through a dramatic geothermal valley.
• The bus ride is part of the adventure: The route includes rough gravel roads and takes several hours each way.
• The Highland Baths offer two hours of downtime: This is the most restful part of the day, but towels are not included.
• Gullfoss and Geysir add classic Iceland sights: You get brief sightseeing stops on the way out and back.
• Bring serious outdoor clothing: Waterproof layers, gloves, a hat, water, snacks, sturdy boots, and hiking poles will make a real difference.
• The $282 price buys access to a difficult-to-reach area: It is good value if you want Kerlingarfjöll without driving yourself, but less so if you dislike long bus rides.

Kerlingarfjöll in one long Iceland day

This is not a quick sightseeing excursion. You leave Reykjavík at about 8:00 in the morning and are due back near 20:00, making it a full 12-hour outing. Much of that time is spent on the road, but the destination is the point: Kerlingarfjöll is remote, rugged, and difficult to visit without a suitable vehicle.

The trip is operated by Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll, with an English-speaking driver and activity host. At the base, your host welcomes you with stories about the area before the bus continues to Hveradalir. From there, you explore on foot, then return to Highland Base for lunch time and the Highland Baths.

I would think of this as a highland sampler, not a full hiking expedition. You get a taste of the area’s scenery, a short walk among hot springs, time to bathe, and two famous stops near the main road. That mix works well for someone who wants to see the interior of Iceland but does not want to rent a 4×4 or plan a multi-day highland trip.

Leaving Reykjavík and crossing toward the interior

The meeting point is Reykjavík Terminal at Skógarhlíð 10. Look for the bus marked Highland Base, Kerlingarfjöll. The morning departure is early enough that you should arrive with your boots on, water filled, and snacks packed.

The first part of the ride takes you away from the capital and toward Iceland’s open interior. The stated route gives about 75 minutes to Gullfoss, followed by a 15-minute sightseeing stop. You get a quick look at one of Iceland’s best-known waterfalls before the bus heads farther into the highlands.

That stop is useful because it breaks up the ride and gives you a famous sight at no extra cost. It is not a long visit, though. If you prefer to spend more time at each place, this schedule may feel hurried.

After Gullfoss, the road becomes more remote. The journey toward Kerlingarfjöll takes about another hour and a half according to the route details, while the full day’s travel time is longer when the return journey and other stops are counted. The road is a serious part of the experience. One Swedish passenger described being thrown around on the rough road and wished the operator had explained this more clearly in advance.

Take that warning seriously if you are pregnant, prone to motion sickness, or simply dislike bumpy bus travel. The highlands are not reached by smooth highway. The difficult ride is also why this tour can take you to a place that would otherwise require more planning and a suitable vehicle.

Hveradalir, where the ground steams

The bus takes you from Highland Base to Hveradalir, a geothermal valley known for active hot springs and unusual rock colors. Here, the scenery changes from broad mountain views to a closer look at the earth’s heat. Steam rises from the ground, and the colored slopes create striking contrasts with the surrounding peaks.

You have roughly 45 to 75 minutes to walk around, depending on how the day’s timing works. The provided schedule gives a 12:45 departure from Hveradalir after arriving at 11:30, which allows about 75 minutes. Another route description lists one hour of hiking. Either way, this is a short visit.

That time is enough to take photographs, see the geothermal features, and get a feel for the valley. It is not enough for a relaxed, long-distance walk. One person who skipped the bath managed to walk all the way down to Highland Base in about 90 minutes, but that was an extra choice rather than the normal plan.

The walking surface deserves attention. Wet ground, loose gravel, and steps can become slick even when it is not raining. Bring sturdy hiking boots, and consider hiking poles. One passenger needed to borrow poles from another person after finding the steps slippery. This is not a paved park walk, and your footwear matters more here than it would at Gullfoss.

The activity is described as a guided hike in the included features, but the schedule also says self-guided sightseeing at Hveradalir. In practical terms, you receive an introduction and direction from the host, then have free time to explore the geothermal area. Do not book this expecting a continuous naturalist talk along the trail.

Lunch at Highland Base

After Hveradalir, the bus returns to Highland Base for a lunch break at the restaurant. A table can be reserved for you if you want to eat there, but lunch is not included in the $282 price.

This pause gives you a chance to warm up, use the facilities, and refuel before the bath. Pack snacks even if you plan to buy lunch, since the hike and long bus ride make food useful throughout the day. The supplied information specifically recommends snacks and a water bottle.

The lunch stop also helps the day feel less rushed. Still, the schedule allows about one hour, so this is a practical meal break rather than a long restaurant visit. If you want to keep costs down, bring food with you and use the stop to eat it.

Two hours in the Highland Baths

The Highland Baths are the reward after the cold, rough, active part of the day. You get about two hours to relax in geothermal water surrounded by the highland setting. The bath gives you time to slow down and enjoy the silence after the bus ride and walk.

I like this part of the plan because it balances the short Hveradalir visit. You may not have enough time to wander far in the valley, but you do have a generous period to sit in warm water and take in the remote setting.

Towels are not included, so pack one or plan accordingly. Your swimwear and dry clothes should be easy to reach, not buried under your hiking gear. You will also want waterproof outer layers for the walk between buildings and the bus.

The bath is optional in the sense that you can choose to spend your time differently. One person skipped it and took a longer walk instead. That option suits strong hikers who care more about distance than bathing, but most people will probably appreciate the chance to rest before the long ride back.

Returning through Geysir

The bus leaves Highland Base at about 17:00. The return route includes a 30-minute sightseeing stop at Geysir, followed by the final drive to Reykjavík Terminal. This gives you another chance to stretch your legs and see one of Iceland’s best-known geothermal areas.

Geysir and Hveradalir show two different sides of Iceland’s geothermal activity. Geysir is easier to reach and fits neatly into the classic Golden Circle route. Hveradalir feels much more remote and rough. Seeing both in one day makes the tour more varied, though neither stop receives the amount of time you would get on a dedicated visit.

The estimated arrival in Reykjavík is around 20:00. Delays are possible on a long highland day, so I would not schedule a tight dinner reservation, flight, or evening activity afterward.

What the $282 price really covers

At $282 per person, this is an expensive day trip. The value depends on what you are paying to avoid.

The cost includes round-trip transportation from Reykjavík, the remote ride to Kerlingarfjöll, the Hveradalir visit, entry to the Highland Baths, and sightseeing at Gullfoss and Geysir. It also removes the need to organize a highland vehicle, route, and bathing reservation yourself.

That makes the price easier to justify if Kerlingarfjöll is high on your list and you are not renting a suitable vehicle. You are paying for access to a difficult destination and for someone else to handle the driving on rough roads.

The value is weaker if your main goal is simply a hot spring or the Golden Circle. You could spend less time and money on other outings near Reykjavík. This tour earns its price through the remote setting, not through a large amount of guided walking or a full meal.

The average score is 4.8 from nine ratings, with especially strong praise for the scenery, the bath, and the friendly approach of the driver or host. The positive reactions make sense, but the lower-scoring experience points to the main weakness: three or more hours of rough road for a relatively short walk can feel like too much if you expect a full hiking day.

Who should book this day trip

I would recommend it to you if you want a no-driving route into the Icelandic Highlands and enjoy unusual scenery more than a packed list of attractions. It is also a good fit if you like the idea of pairing a rough outdoor walk with a long, warm soak.

You should be comfortable with a full day away from Reykjavík, a bumpy ride, changing weather, and uneven ground. You do not need to be an expert hiker based on the information provided, but you should be able to walk on slippery paths and steps while wearing proper boots.

This is less suitable if you want a long, guided hike with detailed explanations at every stop. It is also a poor match if you are pregnant or have a medical reason to avoid rough vehicle travel. The operator should have been clearer about the road conditions, so you need to make that decision yourself before booking.

The trip may appeal to photographers, too. The combination of steaming springs, colored rock, snow, and open mountain views gives you plenty to frame, especially in good weather. Just remember that photo time competes with walking time when the Hveradalir stop is short.

Practical preparation for a smoother day

Wear waterproof hiking boots with good grip. Add waterproof trousers and a jacket, warm layers, gloves, and a hat. The weather in the highlands can change quickly, and the walking surface may stay slippery even on a dry-looking day.

Bring a water bottle, snacks, and a towel. Lunch is extra, and the schedule does not leave much room for an unplanned food stop. Hiking poles are not listed as included, so bring your own if you use them.

Keep your expectations clear: this is a scenic, active day with a short geothermal walk, not a deep wilderness trek. If you accept that balance, the trip offers a rare look at Iceland’s interior without asking you to arrange the transport yourself.

Free cancellation is available up to 24 hours before departure, and you can reserve now and pay later. Check the available starting time when booking, since the activity lasts 12 hours.

Should you book A day in Kerlingarfjöll?

Book it if you want to reach a remote geothermal valley, enjoy a highland bus journey, and finish with a soak in the Highland Baths. The strongest reasons to go are the scenery, the unusual Hveradalir stop, and the chance to see Kerlingarfjöll without driving rough roads yourself.

Skip it if you need a smooth ride, a long hike, or a fully guided walk. At $282, the day makes sense for access to Kerlingarfjöll, not as a cheap way to see Gullfoss and Geysir. Pack poles, warm waterproof clothing, snacks, and patience for the road, and you will be prepared for what this ambitious day actually offers.

FAQ

Where does the tour depart from?

It departs from Reykjavík Terminal at Skógarhlíð 10, 105 Reykjavík. Look for the bus marked Highland Base, Kerlingarfjöll.

How long does the experience last?

The full experience lasts about 12 hours. Departure is scheduled for 8:00, with an estimated return to Reykjavík around 20:00.

What language is the tour offered in?

The tour is offered in English, with a live English-speaking guide or activity host.

Is lunch included?

No. Lunch is not included, although you may reserve a table at the Highland Base restaurant. Bringing snacks is recommended.

Are towels included for the Highland Baths?

No. You need to bring your own towel.

How much time do I get at Hveradalir?

The schedule allows roughly 45 to 75 minutes at Hveradalir. The route details describe about one hour of hiking, while the timed program allows about 75 minutes between arrival and departure.

What should I bring?

Bring sturdy hiking boots, waterproof trousers and a jacket, warm outdoor clothing, a hat, gloves, a water bottle, and snacks. Hiking poles are also useful because the paths and steps can be slippery.